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Side wall flashing can also be installed as a single continuous piece. This is common against stucco walls and with tile roofing. Be sure to turn up a hem (water stopper) on the horizontal roof side of the flashing. Metal flashings are fixed with the small clips to the roof. When you apply the shingles, do not nail the shingles through this metal profile but glue the end of every shingle on the profile edge.

Counter flashing

Counter flashing or cap flashing must be installed, lapping the step flashing or continuous metal flashing, so that water cannot run into the joint. This is done by raking out the mortar joint to a depth of 2-4 cm, inserting the bent edge of the flashing and refilling with mastic. The length of the counter flashing depends on the roof pitch and the brick size. Always start at the lowest point, overlapping each by at least 7 cm. Cap flashings can also be made as a one continuous piece.

Flashing against vertical front wall

Apply shingles up the roof until a course must be trimmed to fit the base of the vertical wall. By planning you can slightly adjust the expansion in the previous courses, so that the last row is about 15-20 cm wide. Apply a continuous piece of metal flashing over the last course of shingles by embedding it with bituminous mastic and nailing it to the roof. Do not nail the strip to the wall. The metal flashing strip should be bended to extend about 10 cm up the vertical wall and 10 cm onto the last shingle course. Applying an additional row of shingles over the wall flashing strip on the shingle surface is optional. The last pieces of shingles must be fastened with face nails sealed over with a small dab of roofing cement. The top part of wall flashing can be placed under the siding or covered by a counter flashing (stucco wall).